They market to hobbyists where the requirements are less stringent and most likely don't know the difference. ![]() They anodize their aluminum tools(anodization has its own variances) and aluminum expands and contracts with temperature much more than tool steel. They don't sell to governments or industry where such specs and tolerances are required.There are well established gradings for measuring tools, you never see them mentioned on their sites. The problem I have with Woodpeckers and other similar manufacturers is that they don't publish the specs and tolerances they manufacture to. It isn't about one being better than another, but about how you work and what is good enough for you. Woodworking has traditionaly been much more of a relative measurement system as many techniques predate precision measurement capabilities. One was by relative measurements and the other was based on precision measurements and working to exact numbers. In building stamping dies my boss has talked about two ways of doing it that were used in the 60's. That was why I made a point about working to numbers or not. Just my opinion and the way that I use these tools. This works just as well with a 60 cent bar as it does a $6 bar. It's a good starting point for me, but numerical values and measurements mean nothing, only the physical (relative) dimension that is left is what I care about. I can't ever remember using a setup block and then just leaving it alone, I always have to tweak things as I test fit the parts. ![]() It will be close, but in reality it probably won't be exact. You are comparing the setup block to a blade or bit by eyesight/touch to set it. The very nature of a setup block makes it a rough setup tool.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |